June 30, 2007

Tohru called about 11:00AM this morning. He and the other climbers are back at high camp and ready to head down to medical camp. It seems that while Tohru and Yoshi were busy repairing the weather station, the rest of the climbers who went to the summit had quite an adventure…
Bad weather closed in on the summit party while they were descending from the summit. They were in whiteout conditions, and could not move up or down the mountain. The climbers were stranded above Denali pass for almost 24 hours. Finally, the weather cleared and they made it back to high camp. Everyone is fine, and the weather seems a bit better today, so going to medical camp should be no problem. They will probably rest at medical camp before descending the rest of the way to the Kahiltna landing point.
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今朝午前11時に連絡が入る。全てのメンバーがHigh Campまで戻っており、Medical Campへ下りる準備が整った。TohruとYoshiがWeather stationの修復をしている間、どうやら頂上を目指した他のメンバーは、随分と冒険をしたようだ・・・
頂上を目指したメンバーは、悪天候のため頂上からの下山途中に足止めをくった。ホワイトアウトの状況で、上にも下にも動くことが出来なかった。メンバーは、Denali passの上で、ほぼ24時間取り残され、ようやく天候が回復してHigh Campに戻ってくることができた。皆元気にしており、今日の天気も少しはよくなっているので、Medical Campまで下りるのには問題がないだろう、とのこと。メンバーはKahiltna離着陸地点まで行く前に、Medical Campで休息する予定である。
The climbers have reached the weather station at 4:00PM this afternoon. They found that the weather station was completely collapsed. Yoshi and Tohru were able to install the temperature sensors and pressure sensor, but not the the wind sensors. Amazingly, they were able to install the telemetry system, and we are getting good data.
The climbers made it to High Camp last night at around 8pm. After setting up camp and cooking dinner it was nearly midnight. This morning they are taking it easy and have not decided yet whether they will attempt getting to the weather station this afternoon because the winds are still very strong up above High Camp. Temperature this morning was -10degC with a cold wind blowing off the mountain but inside the tent, it is above freezing.
Tohru called from the bottom of Headwall to report that the group had a successful day yesterday securing their cache up at High Camp and return back down to Medical Camp. They are on their way back to High Camp under clear skies. There are still high winds above High Camp but they are hoping these will calm some by tomorrow, as they hope to climb to the weather station and the summit. Right now the winds are too strong for working on the weather station. Everyone is doing well and are excited to be nearing the top of their journey.
Tohru called from the top of Head Wall this afternoon. The group is doing a carry up of equipment and food from Medical Camp (14,000ft) to High Camp (17,200ft) today. They left Medical Camp at around 9:20 am and are hoping to arrive by 5pm this afternoon. After making a cache, they will return to Medical Camp for the night. There are around 100 climbers at Medical Camp who are either on their way up or down the mountain and everyone is happy to be moving again. The skies are clear and the wind has diminished, although it is still somewhat strong on the ridge they were calling from. They tested cellular phone service from this location and were able to get ACS service - CellOne was not working.
Tohru called to say that this afternoon the weather seems to be changing and, although it is still windy up above Medical Camp and snowy in the morning, they were able to get out and do some skiing and go to the “Edge of the World”, about 1/2 mile East of Medical Camp. The Edge of the World is a cliff that drops thousands of feet and from which on a sunny day, the view is endless. The temperature at Medical Camp is a warm 14degC in the patchy sun. They are hopeful that on Tuesday, they will be able to do a carry up to High Camp. Some of the group are doing ski runs to occupy the time and keep in shape.
The team is getting a second day of rest due to white out conditions. The snow and wind have trapped around 10 groups of 6 climbers at Medical Camp until the weather improves, which they hope to be within a week. If the weather improves by tomorrow, they will be able to make it to the Weather Station in 2 days, but they expect the snowy conditions to continue. At 14,000ft, Medical Camp is much colder than Camp 3 with temperatures in the day around freezing and down to as low as -10degC last night. They are using the extra time to fortify the kitchen tent, taking turns so as not to expend too much energy, and getting to know each other better. They have not reached the stage yet of resorting to playing card games but the time may come.

Medical Campへ向かう途中の、昨日と同じ場所(Motorcycle Hill上でWindy Cornerの下)からの連絡。昨日、Medical Campへ荷揚げとキャッシュ(荷物を雪の下に埋めて貯蔵すること)を終え、Camp 3まで降りて一晩過ごし、残りの荷物を荷揚げする。今朝午前6時の気温は、摂氏マイナス10度、午後の気温は心地良い晴天で摂氏20度。通常は風の強いWindy Cornerが、運よく今週は無風である。出会った登山者によると、同じ場所で、5月は時速64kmの風がずっと吹いていたとのこと。




