International Arctic Research Center
June 30th, 2007

Adventure at the summit

June 30, 2007

summit
back to high campTohru called about 11:00AM this morning. He and the other climbers are back at high camp and ready to head down to medical camp. It seems that while Tohru and Yoshi were busy repairing the weather station, the rest of the climbers who went to the summit had quite an adventure…

Bad weather closed in on the summit party while they were descending from the summit. They were in whiteout conditions, and could not move up or down the mountain. The climbers were stranded above Denali pass for almost 24 hours. Finally, the weather cleared and they made it back to high camp. Everyone is fine, and the weather seems a bit better today, so going to medical camp should be no problem. They will probably rest at medical camp before descending the rest of the way to the Kahiltna landing point.

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今朝午前11時に連絡が入る。全てのメンバーがHigh Campまで戻っており、Medical Campへ下りる準備が整った。TohruとYoshiがWeather stationの修復をしている間、どうやら頂上を目指した他のメンバーは、随分と冒険をしたようだ・・・

頂上を目指したメンバーは、悪天候のため頂上からの下山途中に足止めをくった。ホワイトアウトの状況で、上にも下にも動くことが出来なかった。メンバーは、Denali passの上で、ほぼ24時間取り残され、ようやく天候が回復してHigh Campに戻ってくることができた。皆元気にしており、今日の天気も少しはよくなっているので、Medical Campまで下りるのには問題がないだろう、とのこと。メンバーはKahiltna離着陸地点まで行く前に、Medical Campで休息する予定である。

June 29th, 2007

Weather Station

June 29, 2007

weather stationThe climbers have reached the weather station at 4:00PM this afternoon. They found that the weather station was completely collapsed. Yoshi and Tohru were able to install the temperature sensors and pressure sensor, but not the the wind sensors. Amazingly, they were able to install the telemetry system, and we are getting good data.

The temperatures are quite cold today - about -18degC.

It is too late for Tohru and Yoshi will try for the summit this year, so they are heading back to high camp, but other members of the team are continuing up to the summit.

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チームは今日の午後4時頃Weather stationに到着した。Weather stationは完全に崩壊されていた。YoshiとTohruは温度計と圧力計を取り付けることができたが、風速計は取り付けられなかった。驚くことに、彼らは遠隔測定システムを導入することに成功し、大学で山からの送信を受け取っている。

今日の気温はとても寒く、約マイナス18度。TohruとYoshiにとって、今年は頂上を目指すには時間が遅くなったため、High Campへ戻っている。
instalation

June 28th, 2007

High Camp

Thursday, June 28, 2007 - 10:54 am

highcamp.jpgThe climbers made it to High Camp last night at around 8pm. After setting up camp and cooking dinner it was nearly midnight. This morning they are taking it easy and have not decided yet whether they will attempt getting to the weather station this afternoon because the winds are still very strong up above High Camp. Temperature this morning was -10degC with a cold wind blowing off the mountain but inside the tent, it is above freezing.
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チームは昨夜8時頃にHigh Campに到着した。キャンプを設営し、夕食を作り終えた時には夜中の12時頃になっていた。今朝はゆっくりと過ごしており、High Campより上は強風のため、今の時点でWeather stationを目指すかどうかは決定していない。今朝の気温は摂氏マイナス10度で、寒風が山から吹き降ろしているそうだが、テントの中は氷点下以上ある、とのこと。

June 27th, 2007

Moving up to High Camp

Wednesday, June 27, 2007 - 3:08pm

washburns thumbTohru called from the bottom of Headwall to report that the group had a successful day yesterday securing their cache up at High Camp and return back down to Medical Camp. They are on their way back to High Camp under clear skies. There are still high winds above High Camp but they are hoping these will calm some by tomorrow, as they hope to climb to the weather station and the summit. Right now the winds are too strong for working on the weather station. Everyone is doing well and are excited to be nearing the top of their journey.

They saw one raven fly overhead this afternoon and an avalanche had come down over part of the trail, but no climbing groups were caught nearby. High Camp is relatively quiet today, as many groups who had been waiting out the bad weather have started moving up or down the mountain.
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Headwallの下より連絡。昨日、チームはHigh Campへ登ってキャッシュを無事に終え、予定通りMedical Campへ戻って来た。今、快晴の下、再びHigh Campへ向かっている途中である。High Campの上は未だ風が強いが、チームは、明日までにいくらか風がおさまってWeather Stationと頂上を目指せることを望んでいる。今現在の風は、Weather Stationに取り組むには強すぎるとのこと。皆、調子はよく、頂上に近づいていることに興奮している。

チームは、今日の午後、上空を飛んでいる一羽のワタリガラスを見た。また、トレイルの一部にかかっておきて来た雪崩も見た。幸い、雪崩の近くには誰もいなかった。天候のために待機していた多くのグループが上、あるいは下に動き始めたため、今日のHigh Campは比較的静かである。

June 26th, 2007

Moving Up

Tuesday, June 26, 2007 2:48pm

head wallTohru called from the top of Head Wall this afternoon. The group is doing a carry up of equipment and food from Medical Camp (14,000ft) to High Camp (17,200ft) today. They left Medical Camp at around 9:20 am and are hoping to arrive by 5pm this afternoon. After making a cache, they will return to Medical Camp for the night. There are around 100 climbers at Medical Camp who are either on their way up or down the mountain and everyone is happy to be moving again. The skies are clear and the wind has diminished, although it is still somewhat strong on the ridge they were calling from. They tested cellular phone service from this location and were able to get ACS service - CellOne was not working.
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今日の午後、Head Wallの上からの連絡。チームは今日、Medical Camp(4267m)からHigh Camp(5242m)へ機材と食料の荷揚げを行っている。チームはMedical Campを午前9時20分ころ出発した。キャッシュを済ませ、午後5時までにはMedical Campへ戻って今晩泊まる予定。Medical Campでは、約100人のこれから更に上を目指すもの、または下山途中の登山者がいる。みな、再び動きが取れることを喜んでいる。チームが連絡をくれた場所はまだ風が強いそうだが、空は快晴で、風もおさまってきている、とのこと。携帯電話の使用をテストしたところ、ACSは通じたが、Cellular Oneの携帯は通じなかったそうだ。

June 25th, 2007

Edge of the World

Monday, June 25, 2007 3:00pm

Edge of the WorldTohru called to say that this afternoon the weather seems to be changing and, although it is still windy up above Medical Camp and snowy in the morning, they were able to get out and do some skiing and go to the “Edge of the World”, about 1/2 mile East of Medical Camp. The Edge of the World is a cliff that drops thousands of feet and from which on a sunny day, the view is endless. The temperature at Medical Camp is a warm 14degC in the patchy sun. They are hopeful that on Tuesday, they will be able to do a carry up to High Camp. Some of the group are doing ski runs to occupy the time and keep in shape.
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Medical Campの上は以前風が強く、今朝は雪が降ったが、天候は午後になって変わってきている模様。チームは、外に出て、スキーを楽しみ、“Edge of the World (世界の端)と呼ばれる、Medical Campから約800メートル東にある離れた場所まで行くことが出来た。Edge of the Worldは、数百メートルもある崖のへりで、晴れた日にはそこから果てしない景色を臨める場所である。Medical Campは、ところどころ晴れ間があり、気温は摂氏14度と暖かい。チームは、火曜日にはHigh Campへの荷揚げが出来るようにと、望んでいる。メンバーの中には、スキーをして体調を整えているものもいる。

June 24th, 2007

Stuck at Medical Camp

Sunday, June 24, 2007 - 4:25pm

Climbers are staying at Medical Camp while the white out and stron wind conditions at High Camp continue over the weekend. Other climbing groups are not going up the mountain either and only one group has come down. Spirits are high and everyone is doing fine - those who where having altitude sickness have had a chance to acclimatize. With the kitchen tent completed, the group has time to socialize and even play some cards.
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引き続くハイキャンプでのホワイトアウトと急風のため、チームは週末にかけてMedical Campに待機している。他の登山グループも上を目指すものはなく、たった一グループだけが下山してきたとのこと。高山病を感じていたメンバーも高度順応をすることができ、皆元気で、調子がよい。完成したキッチンテントで、メンバーは交流を深め、トランプゲームを楽しむ余裕もあるとのこと。

June 22nd, 2007

White Out Conditions at Medical Camp

Friday, June 22, 2007 - 2:54pm

cacmp buildingThe team is getting a second day of rest due to white out conditions. The snow and wind have trapped around 10 groups of 6 climbers at Medical Camp until the weather improves, which they hope to be within a week. If the weather improves by tomorrow, they will be able to make it to the Weather Station in 2 days, but they expect the snowy conditions to continue. At 14,000ft, Medical Camp is much colder than Camp 3 with temperatures in the day around freezing and down to as low as -10degC last night. They are using the extra time to fortify the kitchen tent, taking turns so as not to expend too much energy, and getting to know each other better. They have not reached the stage yet of resorting to playing card games but the time may come.
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ホワイトアウトのため、今日はMedical Campにての二日目の休息日になった。雪と風は、約10のグループ(各6名の登山者)にMedical Campにての停滞を余儀なくさせている。一週間以内の天候回復を願うばかりである。明日までに天候が回復すれば、チームは2日以内にWeather Stationへ到着する予定であるが、降雪状況は続く見通しである。

Medical Camp は標高4267m(14,000ft)にあり、Camp3よりずっと気温は低く、日中は摂氏零度、昨晩はマイナス10度まで下がった。チームは、エネルギーを温存とメンバーのより深い交流のために、交代でキッチンテントの強化をしている。まだトランプゲームをする段階には至っていないが、そろそろチャンスがありそうだ。

June 21st, 2007

Resting at Medical Camp

Thursday, June 21, 2007 Solstice - 2:40 pm

Today was a rest day for our climbers. They are taking the day at Medical Camp to rest up, dry out their gear, and construct the group kitchen tent. They also retrieved their gear and instruments from the ranger’s cache today. Most of the group are feeling good. The weather is still great but they heard that the outlook is for increasing windy conditions over the next few days.

to medical camp

June 20th, 2007

On the Way to Medical Camp

Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:06pm
out of C3
The group is on their way back up to Medical Camp and they called from the same location as yesterday - above Motorcycle Hill and below Windy Corner. They made it up to Medical Camp yesterday and established their cache and back down to Camp 3 to spend the night and retrieve the rest of their gear. At 6am this morning it was -10degC and this afternoon it is a balmy and sunny 20degC. This week Windy Corner is without wind and our climbers feel lucky - they ran into another climber who reported that winds were a constant 40mph at this location in May.

Some of the climbers are feeling the altitude from the climb yesterday but only one became sick. Everyone is doing fine today and looking forward to their scheduled rest-day tomorrow at Medical Camp. The hotter the temperatures, the slower the travel - that with their later departure time this morning will put them into camp around 7 this evening. Tomorrow they will rest and retrieve the weather station gear from the ranger’s cache and will do some equipment testing.

They saw more ravens raiding someone’s cache yesterday.
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not feeling goodMedical Campへ向かう途中の、昨日と同じ場所(Motorcycle Hill上でWindy Cornerの下)からの連絡。昨日、Medical Campへ荷揚げとキャッシュ(荷物を雪の下に埋めて貯蔵すること)を終え、Camp 3まで降りて一晩過ごし、残りの荷物を荷揚げする。今朝午前6時の気温は、摂氏マイナス10度、午後の気温は心地良い晴天で摂氏20度。通常は風の強いWindy Cornerが、運よく今週は無風である。出会った登山者によると、同じ場所で、5月は時速64kmの風がずっと吹いていたとのこと。

昨日の登山から、数名が高度による体調変化を感じているが、一人だけ体調不良を報告した。今日は全員調子が良く、明日のMedical Campでの休息日を心待ちにしている。気温が上がればあがるほど、移動速度は遅くなる。今朝の遅い出発のため、チームがキャンプに到着したのは、午後7時頃であった。明日は休息と、レンジャーキャッシュ(公園管理人にヘリコプターで運んでもらったWeather Stationの機材を置いてある場所)を回収し、観測機材のテストをする予定である。昨日よりも多くのワタリガラスが、キャッシュをあさっていた。

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